Poet and the Poem Interview

Grace Cavalieri’s interview with Gail Bartlett and Janice Booth

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What Remains

I am delighted to share with you my recent interview, hosted by poet Henry Crawford. It was am honor to speak with Henry about writing poetry and to read one of my poems.

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Movin’ & Shakin’: Hints for Expanding Your Garden

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With autumn slipping into our consciousness, we gardeners sometimes examine our gardens for ways to make things even lovelier next season. Let me suggest three useful activities—moving shrubs and plants for optimum beauty, and two simple methods for creating new plants from our faithful dears by propagation.

So, here are three useful suggestions for expanding and enhancing your garden now that September is here:

Transplanting:

Survey your garden. Those beautiful hostas have doubled in size. That white peony overflows her part of the flowerbed. And what about those irises? They’ve begun to encroach on their neighboring phlox. 

  • Take a look at your shrubs and plants. If they’re too large or clash in color or foliage with the rest of their bedmates, move them. (They’ll be fine with it.)
  • Choose a site with appropriate sunlight and dig a hole.
  • Around the plant to be moved, carefully dig in a circle about 6” from the stem.
  • Gently lift out the root ball and loosen roots from any tightly packed soil.
  • In the new hole place a handful of Epsom salt crystals and drop in the root ball. Backfill around the plant, gently tapping down the soil. (Do not pack the soil too tightly.)
  • Water thoroughly and continue to watch that the relocated plant gets sufficient moisture and light. 
  • Avoid fertilizing now. The plant is settling in and recovering; we want to encourage growth in the root system, not more leaves and blossoms.

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Propagating by Dividing:

Plants that are particularly happy to be divided: hosta, astilbe, peony, iris, coral bells, hellebores, phlox, canna, daylilies 

This is a great way to keep a beautiful specimen in your garden. Look for those healthy, full plants and shrubs—they may even be the ones that are getting a bit too big for their setting. 

  • Begin by digging up the plant as you would for moving. (See above.)
  • Gently remove it from the ground and lay it on its side so you can see the root ball.
  • Using your hands, loosen the roots as much as possible without damaging them. 
  • With a sharp knife or small spade, start from the bottom of the root ball and cut upward toward the plant’s foliage. Be careful to avoid cutting major roots. You’re looking to create two root balls and plants.
  • Add some Epsom salt to the bottom of the original hole, then return one of the halves to its hole. Backfill and thoroughly water the plant.
  • Now that you can see the size of the new root ball, decide on a new location and dig a hole. Be sure you’ve considered the amount of daily light and proximity of other plants. Your newly-created plant will undergo separation anxiety for a while. 
  • Drop in a few crystals of Epsom salt and the root ball. Follow the same procedure as with the “mother” plant—backfill and thoroughly water.
  • Until the first frost, keep an eye on the separated plants. Be sure they’re getting sufficient water (but not soggy.) There may be some drooping leaves, but don’t be dismayed. They’ll perk up before long.
  • The particular joy of “dividing” plants is that you keep these happy plants growing as a family. There’s a history developing among the sister plants. 

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Propagating with Cuttings:

Outdoor Plants that are easily propagated with cuttings: Geraniums, Spirea, Basil, Fuschia, Dahlia, Azalea, Hydrangea

Indoor plants that are easily propagated with cuttings: Pothos, Philodendron, Snake plants, Begonia, Succulents, Spider plants, Cacti

There are other forms, such as grafting, that can be used to create new plants from old, but they’re a bit too complicated for my kind of gardening time and interest. So, let me give you a rundown on this easy and almost foolproof method of adding favorite plants to your garden next spring.

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Simple steps-by-step for propagation with cuttings:

  • Tools needed: sharp knife or garden scissors, pot, loose soil (possibly mixed with Vermiculite or Perlite for drainage), water
  • Choose a sturdy stem of a healthy plant or shrub.
  • Cut a 4–6” section of stem, or for succulents a plump leaf is sufficient.
  • Remove leaves on the lower half of the piece
  • For succulents only: leave the leaf or stem to harden or seal for 24 hrs. before setting it in sand or very dry soil. (Sometimes tiny pebbles will work as the growing medium.) 
  • Gently immerse the section of stem in damp, loose soil or in water. (If you’re trying the water method, be sure to use a container that will allow only the lower 1/3 to 1/2 of the stem to be submerged.) Be sure the soil is not wet but keep it slightly damp.
  • Set the cutting in its medium in diffused light. Be patient! This will take a while. Within 4–6 weeks, sometimes sooner, you’ll have tiny roots growing. (That’s why the water method is fun. You can watch as the roots begin to emerge from the stem.)
  • When the roots seem sufficiently developed, set the cutting into a pot of the appropriate size. Use clean, fresh soil, not too compacted. Cover only the lower 1/3 of the stem and roots with soil. (Be careful not to let the cutting sit too long in the water; it will eventually rot.) 
  • Watch your lovely new plant grow and flourish. You can pinch off too-long stems to shape the plant as it grows.

These small projects in our gardens will not only enhance the beauty and strength of our plants, but the relocated shrub, the sister hostas, and the family of young begonias from last fall’s garden will brighten our gardens next spring. 

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Closing the Buffet: Deer Resistant Planting


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It’s estimated that there are approximately 200,000 to 250,000 white tail deer in Maryland according to the Department of Natural Resources; that’s approximately 20 deer per acre. (No, that doesn’t mean there are 20 deer lurking in your garden. Don’t panic.) Sometimes it does seem the deer have thrown a party in my garden. My hosta are the first course, then they move on to whatever looks tasty. 

Let’s take another look at ways to keep these beautiful animals from using our gardens as fast-food eatery. There are four predictable types of deterrents: 

Strong odors • Bitter tastes • Prickly textures • Very tall (8’) fences, preferably electrified

How we use these methods and how to maintain a consistent defense over the long weeks of our growing season—those are the issues. Basically, when it comes to fencing, you either have or you don’t have the desire or the room for an 8-foot fence around your garden. (Anything lower will not deter those high-jumping deer.)

So, that leaves us with home remedies and plantings. Deer eat 3–5 percent of their body weight every day. And they’re creatures of habit! When deciding on revising your garden’s plantings to defend against hungry deer, keep these four points in mind:

Deer have good memories; that is the good news and the bad news. If they’re persuaded your garden is undesirable, they’ll stay away. 

Preventing deer from grazing in your garden is easier than trying to change their habits once you’re part of their dining schedule. 

Nutritional needs influence the plants they’ll choose to eat.

Deer share their discoveries. Once you’ve got a single diner, it won’t be long before the whole family will be in your garden. 

Before I list some of the best deer-resistant plants, let me review some of the alternative deterrents:

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These Home-Remedies Work:

  • Hang bags of human hair around the perimeter of the garden. (It’s not an attractive look, but neither are chomped plants.)
  • Hang bars of soap from trees and tall shrubs. (Irish Spring is purported to be particularly effective.)
  • Coffee grounds: spread them around plants.
  • Noisy dogs: if you don’t mind leaving your dog loose in your garden, the deer will stay away. You’ll have to let the dog guard your garden in the early mornings and at dusk, the times deer are usually out grazing. 
  • Coyote decoys work, though I’m not sure how that decoy will fit into your garden’s design.
  • Spray a mixture of cinnamon, clove, mint, vinegar, and dish soap on perimeter plants. 
  • Hang reflective tape like ribbons from branches and fences. 
  • Wind chimes work sometimes; deer are spooked by unexpected noises. Remember, the windchime only chimes if there is a breeze. Where you place the wind chimes may determine the effectiveness of this deterrent. 
  • Motion-activated sprinklers work…for a while. Anecdotal reports suggest the deer soon figure out how to avoid the sprinkler or simply ignore it. 
  • Motion-activated lights, like sprinklers, work only for a time. Too soon the deer will appreciate the extra lighting for their late-night dining.
  • Good, old-fashioned pinwheels can work, but like windchimes, they rely on breezes and have no effect if they’re out of the wind.
  • Flags, both the kind that hang along a long cord and the single flags we see on sticks and flagstaffs.
  • Ultrasonic sound waves and flashing LED lights seem to be the most effective and long-lasting deterrents. (Your neighbors won’t be disturbed by the sound waves, but they may be unhappy with the flashing lights.)

These Do Not Work:

  • Dryer sheets
  • Pine-So
  • Owl decoys
  • Baking soda
  • Human urine 

Now, on to using plantings to protect your garden and plants that deer don’t like to eat. 

Protective Planting: Plant defensively around the perimeter of your garden. These shrubs and trees are prickly, unpleasant in the sensitive mouths of deer: American Holly, Juniper, Boxwood, Switchgrass (I know it’s an ornamental grass, not a shrub, but in the mouth of a deer it is sharp and uncomfortable.) Plant carefully chosen deer-resistant plants among your more vulnerable plants—nature’s guards. (Be sure to think about plants that share similar sun and moisture requirements.)

Deer-resistant Perennials: Lavender: fragrant to us, stinky to deer Catmint: also, pleasant to us but not to our unwanted guests Russian sage: handsome and prickly Peonies: they’re actually rather toxic for deer Foxglove: another plant toxic to deer (and to any other animals that might chew on it) Bee balm: lovely for bees and icky to the deer, a win-win plant Lenten Rose (Hellebore): thick leaves that deer ignore

Ornamental Grasses the deer dislike: Maiden Grass: quite tall and dramatic, but deer dislike having to pass through it Fountain Grass: they have spikes that deter deer Blue fescue: tough grass that deer avoid

Shrubs the deer dislike: Boxwood: sour smell and bitter taste Bluebeard (Caryopteris): attracts butterflies and bees Barberry: thorny, colorful shrub with pretty, fall berries

Whatever you decide to do, or if you decide to do nothing, our furry neighbors will be around. We can try to make our gardens an unwelcome dining spot, so the deer won’t make our gardens part of their regular rounds. 

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What Remains: Original Poems

What Remains 

I am delighted to announce the publication of my first chapbook of original poems. The collection is available on Amazon. (Click on the image to go directly to the Amazon webpage.)

October 2, 2025

by Janice Fuhrman Booth (Author)


The subtle beauty of Janice Fuhrman Booth’s What Remains brings to mind The Delicacy and Strength of Lace – title of Leslie Marmon Silko’s and James Wright’s volume of correspondence. With literary touchstones ranging from lucille clifton to Marcel Proust, a variety of intriguing poetic forms, and her calm mien, Booth crafts a revelatory poetry grounded in learnings that have “taken…a lifetime…to know.” I love her clear eye toward the natural world, her deft wit, and the way she goes about her work, “patiently … dispersing grief/cleansing.”
Dr. Terry Bohnhorst Blackhawk
Kresge Arts in Detroit Literary Fellow

Like drifting into reverie, these poems immerse the reader in the flux of time and memory. Poet Janice Booth trains her powerful vision on, “… the edge of the past, not the whole / A plane of singular clarity. //” In poems of quietude and strength, grief and mourning for the lost beloved coexist indelibly on the page with a joyous celebration of the crisp mornings of rural childhood. These poems have a music all their own. It is,“ the sound of a wild heart in repose.”
Ellen Wise, Poet

Sometimes all the flowers and rivers and birds in the world come together to make song—to make memory and meaning. Janice Booth’s What Remains tells us that the earth’s bounty—as well as the heart’s bounty— is pure poetry.
Grace Cavalieri.
Maryland’s tenth Poet Laureate

Janice Booth reminds us, in this outstanding debut collection, to “Look out, look up, look in,” and then leads us to do exactly that. Using the imagery of nature and everyday experience, past and present, she illuminates the beauty, mystery and fragility inherent in our own lives.
Natalie Canavor, author & poet

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